Finding Peace In Nara And Chaos In Osaka
Leaving behind Nagoya, we hopped on a bus bound for Nara, a place that we originally only planned as a day trip from Osaka but this change meant we could stay for a few days and it was so worth it. We had intended to visit Kii-Katsuura, a coastal town famous for the breathtaking Nachi Waterfall nearby - the tallest single-drop waterfall in Japan, framed by lush greenery and the striking Seiganto-ji Temple. But when you're traveling for a year, every detour must be weighed against the bigger picture. Visiting Japan in the winter is incredible for snowy landscapes and crisp, clear days, but some places, like Nachi Falls, are best seen at other times of the year when the water flow is at its strongest. Kii-Katsuura was just too much of a stretch for our budget at the time, so we made the call to head directly to Nara and spend a few days there instead.
Nara: A Peaceful, Playful Surprise
Nara is a city that feels like it exists in two worlds, one foot firmly in Japan’s ancient past, with its grand temples and towering pagodas, and the other in a bizarre deer-filled present. As one of Japan’s old capitals, it carries a deep historical significance, something we talked about in more detail in our 5 Things We Learned This Week blog post.
Our first stop was Todai-ji, a temple that houses the Daibutsu, the largest bronze Buddha in Japan. The sheer size of the statue is overwhelming the Buddha sits at 15 metres tall, radiating an almost indescribable presence. The temple itself, one of the largest wooden buildings in the world, is a marvel of engineering and history, originally constructed in the 8th century. Walking through its massive wooden gates and into the hall, it’s impossible not to be humbled by the craftsmanship and spiritual significance of the place.
Next, we made our way to Kasuga-taisha, one of Nara’s most enchanting shrines. The long, moss-covered paths leading to the shrine are lined with thousands of stone lanterns, which are only lit during special festivals, creating an almost ethereal atmosphere. Inside, bronze lanterns hang elegantly from the eaves, casting soft reflections in the dim light. The shrine has stood here for over a thousand years, and its tranquil setting deep within the forest made it feel like a hidden world of its own.
But let’s talk about the deer. They are everywhere, roaming the parks, casually crossing streets, and eagerly approaching anyone who dares to hold a deer biscuit. Ash had a magical moment where he gently fed a deer, a scene straight out of a Miyazaki film. I, on the other hand, experienced full-blown chaos. The moment I revealed the biscuits; I was ambushed from all sides. Deer nudging, headbutting, even attempting to gnaw at my coat, it was a full-scale attack. I tried to maintain my dignity, but let’s be honest, there’s no graceful way to escape a herd of overly enthusiastic deer.
Determined to redeem myself, we tried again for a more peaceful deer-feeding experience. Round two was much more serene, as we found a quieter spot and took our time, finally enjoying that soft, almost reverent moment we had hoped for.
We left Nara with full hearts, feeling incredibly grateful that our change of plans had gifted us this experience. But next up was Osaka, and if Nara was all about peace, Osaka was the complete opposite.
Osaka: A Wild Ride of Neon, Food & Chaos
Osaka is pure energy. It’s neon lights, streets packed with food stalls, and an atmosphere that buzzes long into the night. Dotonbori was as wild as we expected, crowds moving in waves beneath the iconic Glico sign, the smell of takoyaki in the air, and a never-ending sensory overload.
We had fun, no doubt about it. Universal Studios Japan was an absolute highlight. We spent the day hopping between rides, soaking up the magic of Super Nintendo World, and indulging in far too many theme park snacks. But by the time our days in Osaka started piling up, we realised something. For the first time in this trip we felt like we had overstayed. Osaka is fun, but it’s a city best enjoyed in short bursts. The real highlights? The days we spent outside of it.
Escaping the City: Himeji, Kobe, and Minoh
Our favourite days were the ones where we left Osaka behind.
First stop: Himeji. Himeji Castle is every bit as stunning as we had hoped, its white facade towering against the sky. It was one of Japan’s first sites to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s one of the few original castles left in Japan, having survived wars and natural disasters. We spent time wandering through its wooden corridors, climbing the steep staircases, and admiring the panoramic views from the top. The castle grounds are equally impressive, with tranquil gardens, winding stone paths, and the beautiful Koko-en Garden nearby, an Edo-period styled garden with koi-filled ponds and delicate tea houses. It’s easy to see why this castle is considered Japan’s most beautiful.
Then there was Kobe, a city that immediately charmed us with its seaside views and historic streets. Of course, we had to try Kobe beef. Sitting at a teppanyaki restaurant, we watched as the chef expertly cooked the rich, buttery beef in front of us. Each bite melted in our mouths. Was it expensive? Oh, absolutely. Was it worth it? Every single yen. Some experiences mean more to us than others, and we’re starting to realise how we prioritise our budget differently depending on what we truly value. And eating Kobe beef in Kobe felt like exactly the kind of unique, once-in-a-lifetime experience we came to Japan for.
Finally, Minoh, a hidden gem just outside Osaka. We visited Katsuo-ji Temple first, a stunning site famous for its thousands of daruma dolls, symbols of perseverance and good luck. Ash even collected a unique Eki stamp here, adding to his growing collection. After exploring the temple, we set off on the beautiful hike to Minoh Waterfall. The path wound through serene forests, crossing small bridges and passing traditional tea houses. It was the perfect escape from city life. After reaching the falls, we continued hiking through the forest, revelling in the peace and quiet before heading back down. Along the way, we tried the famous deep-fried maple leaves, a surprisingly delicious snack that we never expected to enjoy so much. Anything maple related really makes us pine for Canada and moving there one day is a dream we haven’t yet given up on.
A Night Out in Osaka’s Gay District
Before we left Osaka behind, we had one last adventure a night out in the city’s gay neighbourhood, Doyama-cho. Osaka may not have been our favourite city, but this was one of the best nights we’ve had in Japan so far. It was also our first time back in a gay bar since getting married, and let’s just say, we celebrated accordingly. The drinks were strong, the music was loud, and the flirting? Shameless. There was something exhilarating about being back in a space where we could let loose, dance badly, and revel in the ridiculousness of it all. It was the kind of night where strangers became best friends, and the only real worry was how bad our heads would hurt the next day. And they did. Totally worth it.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Osaka may not have stolen our hearts and it’s a place we’ll unlikely visit again, but it did give us some incredible memories. And Nara? That was pure magic. Sometimes, the best parts of travel are the ones you never planned for. We’re starting to realise that Japan is drowning in social media hype, and ironically, some of the best places we’ve visited are the ones that don’t constantly appear on our feeds – whether that’s Minoh, Himeji or a welcoming night out in Doyama-cho. Now, we’re heading to Kyoto, a city of temples, history, and hopefully, a much-needed change of pace after Osaka’s chaos. Let’s see if Kyoto can live up to its legendary reputation!
Have you had experiences like this in Nara or Osaka? Let us know in the comments below!
