Kyoto is the kind of place that can make you forget where or when you are. But when we first arrived, it wasn’t the postcard perfect wooden streets we expected. At first glance, Kyoto felt just like any other modern Japanese metropolis with busy roads, convenience stores on every corner and concrete skyscrapers filling the skyline. But Kyoto reveals itself slowly. As we wandered deeper down hidden narrow alleyways and behind unassuming gates, the city’s true character began to reveal itself. The remnants of Japan’s imperial past, waiting to be discovered.

As Japan’s former capital for over a thousand years, Kyoto is a city where ancient traditions quietly persist alongside modern life. Wooden machiya houses line quiet lanes, vermillion torii gates stretch into the distance, all co-existing with bustling modern food markets and contemporary trendy cafes.

We explored Kyoto at a slow but thorough pace, and it quickly became one of our favourite places in Japan. From iconic temples to hidden mountain paths, here’s what made our time in Kyoto unforgettable.

A Tale of Two Capitals

Before we dive into Kyoto’s treasures, a little history: Kyoto, simply meaning “Capital City” (京都),held its title as Japan’s capital from 794 to 1868 when Emperor Meiji moved the imperial seat to Edo, renaming it Tokyo, literally, the "Eastern Capital" (東京).

Edo, as it was known, had been the political and economic centre under the Tokugawa shogunate so this wasn’t just a geographical shift, it was a cultural and political one. Tokyo became the symbol of new Japan, one that was modernising in an effort to catch up with the West.

Fast forward 150 years, and having already soaked in the energy of Tokyo, we were eager to discover the quieter, historical charm of Kyoto. In Tokyo, the buzz of neon lights and fast paced rhythm felt like the future, a city that is always evolving. However, Kyoto embraces its past, preserving traditions that have existed for centuries. Every street has a story, every temple holds history, and every turn offers something unexpected, offering a sharp contrast to Tokyo’s modern hustle. Though Kyoto lost its official title, it is easy to see why it still feels like the cultural heart of Japan.

What struck us most was how these cities, though so different are bound by their shared legacy. They were always meant to be connected – past and present, two sides of the same story. Now having explored both, it feels almost as we have begun to understand what makes Japan, the country it is today. Never afraid to change while seamlessly preserving what most of us think as Japanese.

Gold, Silver, and a Philosopher’s Dream

The Golden Pavilion – A Reflection of Perfection

We started our Kyoto adventure at Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion), and honestly, it looks too perfect to be real. Covered entirely in gold leaf, the temple shimmers against a tranquil pond, its reflection so flawless it feels like a carefully staged illusion.

Originally built in 1397 as a retirement villa for a shogun, it was later converted into a Zen temple. But don’t let its serene appearance fool you this place has a dramatic history. In 1950, a fanatical monk burned it down, and what we see today is a reconstruction from 1955. Looking at it, it’s hard to imagine anyone wanting to destroy something so beautiful.

We had read that Kyoto suffers from over tourism and we wanted to ensure that our experiences of this rich city were not inundated with people at every spot. So, arriving early in the morning, we found a quiet corner to take it all in. The sight of golden light dancing on the water, the distant hum of chanting monks, and the faint smell of incense in the air it was one of those moments that made us pause and appreciate where we were. A perfect introduction to Kyoto.

The Silver Pavilion & The Philosopher’s Path

From there, we crossed the city and followed the Philosopher’s Path, a peaceful stone walkway lined with cherry trees (although the trees were not in blossom yet!). It was named after Nishida Kitaro, a famous Japanese philosopher who used to walk this route while deep in thought. We weren’t exactly contemplating the meaning of existence, but we did reflect on how Kyoto has a way of slowing you down, making every step feel intentional.

Next, we visited Ginkaku-ji (The Silver Pavilion), which, despite its name, was never actually covered in silver. Instead, its beauty lies in its subtlety: a weathered wooden structure surrounded by meticulously raked Zen gardens. It was originally meant to mirror Kinkaku-ji in grandeur, and it did for a time. Covered in a shiny black lacquer it captured the moonlight creating a silvery reflection but over time the lacquer wore away and was never replaced. This weathered look now offers a different kind of beauty, one that valued simplicity over opulence and honestly, we preferred it that way.

Gates, Groves, and Getting Lost

Fushimi Inari – A Pathway to the Gods

One of the most fun experiences we had in Kyoto was hiking through the thousands of vermillion torii gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine. The shrine itself is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, and is one of the most important shrines dedicated to Inari. We didn’t realise at first but these gates, are donated (or sponsored?) by businesses and individuals and they create a mesmerising tunnel stretching into the forested hills.

As we climbed, the crowds thinned, and soon we were mostly alone with the sound of birds and the occasional rustling of leaves. We met a fellow traveller along the way, and what started as polite conversation turned into an impromptu hiking buddy situation. Between discussing our travel adventures and what brought us to Japan we had wandered the entirety of the shrine ending perhaps a little sweaty and out of breath, but with an unforgettable memory of connecting with a like-minded person.

Adashino Bamboo Grove – A Hidden Gem

Kyoto’s bamboos groves are legendary, but we discovered that not all are created equal. Most people flock to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, and while it is undeniably beautiful, it is packed, even at 7am, making it hard to feel that mystical, lost in nature vibe so we sought out a quieter alternative, Adashino Bamboo Grove.

Whilst waiting for it to open, we decided to take a small hike up a nearby trail. This turned into a slight detour as we got completely lost – classic us. But in getting lost, we found an incredible overlook of a small lake nestled in the hills. Standing there, just the two of us, felt like we had stumbled upon something secret, a place untouched by the rush of tourism.

Tucked away in the hills of western Kyoto, we finally made it back to Adashino and the atmosphere was completely different to Arashiyama. This grove had none of the tourist crowds, making it feel even more magical. The bamboo stalks swayed gently in the breeze, casting shifting patterns of light and shadow on the path. The bamboo seemed taller, denser and almost like a forgotten corner of Kyoto.

Gion: The Heart of Kyoto’s Old World

Gion is Kyoto’s most famous district, known for its well-preserved wooden townhouses, lantern-lit alleyways, and the rare sighting of an elusive geisha. In the Edo period, Gion developed as an entertainment district for travellers visiting Yasaka Shrine, and it has maintained its mystique ever since.

We arrived early in the morning to avoid the crowds, and it was magical. The streets were nearly empty, allowing us to take in every detail, the sliding wooden doors, the flickering lanterns, and the sound of water trickling from stone basins outside teahouses.

While we didn’t see any geishas, we did find something else, a stunningly designed Starbucks inside a traditional Kyoto townhouse. With tatami mat seating and wooden beams, it blended seamlessly into its surroundings, making it feel like the most Kyoto way to drink a latte.

The Worshippers' Path: Kibune to Kurama

We travelled north of Kyoto on the famously scenic Eizan railway to visit two small villages and for an unforgettable onsen experience. After the chaos of Osaka, and the quiet busyness of Kyoto itself, we needed a healthy dose of nature and this hike delivered exactly that. The hike from Kibune to Kurama was once a sacred pilgrimage route for worshippers seeking spiritual purification. We followed the trail, with worshipper sticks in hand, through dense misty cedar forests, stopping at small shrines tucked into the mountainside.

Kibune, with its wooden ryokan lining a quiet river, felt like a hidden village from another time. The climb was steep, but the reward was worth it - Kurama greeted us with a mystical temple complex and a much-needed soak at Kurama Onsen, an outdoor bath surrounded by the misty forested hills. It was the perfect way to end a day spent walking in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims.

A Tea Ceremony: The Art of Slowing Down

If Kyoto has a heartbeat, it’s found in the quiet ritual of a tea ceremony. It was the most immersive and personal experience we have had in Japan so far. Unlike a casual cup of tea, this was a carefully choreographed ritual that has remained unchanged for centuries. In this small teahouse, we learned that every step, from how you enter the teahouse, to the way the tea is whisked to the way you turn the bowl has meaning.

Entering the Space – We removed our shoes, washed our hands and entered through a small window to the side of the teahouse. This particular act was historically to prevent Samurai from entering with their katana as the space would not allow the katana to fit through. We opened the sliding window, slid through and slammed it shut to alert the host we had entered.
Preparation – we learned that each of the tatami mats hold a particular meaning and the lines separating them should not be crossed. The host would be to our right, with the main guest (Ash in this case) the only one permitted to speak. His duty was to speak quietly (purposeful to prevent Samurai from being overheard) and to speak for all guests to the host, subtly communicating their wants and needs. Not sure how this would work in a modern marriage! We ate sweet wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) to prepare our stomachs for the earthy bitterness of the upcoming matcha tea.
Cleansing – Our host purified the tea utensils in front of us, a symbolic gesture of removing impurities from the mind as well.
Brewing – Using precise, measured movements, she scooped matcha powder, poured hot water, and whisked it into a frothy green elixir.
Receiving the Bowl – When it was our turn, the host offered us the bowl of tea with the main image of the bowl facing towards us, as a sign of respect to the guests. As we took the tea with both hands, we turned the bowl slightly (as a sign of humbleness), the customary ‘itakadimasu’, and took a slow sip, appreciating the bitterness, the warmth, the moment itself.
A Bow to Close – The ceremony ended with a bow, a silent expression of gratitude for the experience.As we slid out once more of the small window like entrance, we ended with a final slam to let the host know we had finished.

This whole experience wasn’t just about drinking tea - it was about presence, patience, and the beauty of small, deliberate actions. It will likely remain something that sticks with us for the rest of our lives each time we boil our kettle for a cuppa back home, a small reminder that there is beauty in everyday actions.

Kyoto: A City That Stays With You

Kyoto is a city of contrasts. It is both deeply traditional and inevitably modern, tourist filled yet serene in its hidden corners. There are moments of stillness among the crowds, quiet shrines tucked behind bustling streets, secret zen gardens behind wooden doors. The weight of history lingers here, not just in its grand temples and shrines, but in the small rituals of daily life.

As we leave Kyoto behind, we leave with a realisation that Kyoto isn’t just a place you visit, but a place that stays with you. And in our eyes, it remains the cultural heart of Japan. We head now to our final chapter in Japan, to see our final two of Japan’s main four islands (Shikoku and Kyushu) and a city reborn – Hiroshima.

Have you ever been to Kyoto? We would love to hear your experiences in the comments!

Kyoto: Where Past And Present Meet