Snow, Soba and Onsen: Embracing Winter and Slow Travel in Northern Japan
Northern Japan in winter is a snow globe come to life, with stunning landscapes, steaming hot springs, and food that could convert even the most die-hard instant noodle fan. From tackling our first onsen experience (awkwardness and all) to surviving the Wanko Soba noodle challenge in Morioka, this leg of the journey has been one big adventure… seasoned with a little nervous laughter, heaps of noodles, and a lot of snow. Along the way, we even decided to start vlogging our travels, it’s been a move that has been both awkward but surprisingly fun!
Sapporo: Ramen, Beer, and Unexpected Warmth
After leaving Tokyo behind, we kicked things off in Japan’s most northern region Hokkaido and Fuji To Fiji’s most northern checkpoint where in Sapporo, and, in typical “we’ve totally got this figured out” fashion, we thought we were in for the coldest weather Japan could offer. We packed every thermal layer we own, ready to face what we assumed would be a relentless, icy chill. But Japan had other plans. Turns out, our timing was impeccable - Sapporo was having a mild weather moment. There we were, strutting around in our multiple layers like we were preparing to climb Everest, only to discover that we were actually over dressed for the mild, crisp winter air. It was like being served a “spicy” noodle dish that turned out to be completely bland. But don’t worry, we quickly realised this was just the universe’s way of lulling us into a false sense of security, because as we moved south to Morioka and Yamagata, things got seriously cold. The type of cold that could freeze the soul. But hey, more on that in a bit.
Despite the lack of wintery weather, Sapporo wasn’t all disappointment. We did the obvious and indulged in one of the best ramen experiences we could have hoped for. But not just any ramen - Ramen Alley ramen. This famous little strip is lined with tiny restaurants, each specialising in its own take on Sapporo-style ramen. Picking one was a challenge, but once we sat down in a tiny, steamy spot that barely fit a handful of people, the decision became irrelevant. One slurp in and we were hooked. Hot broth, chewy noodles, absolute bliss. That’s when we realised it didn’t matter if it was warm outside - Sapporo ramen is always worth the inevitable noodle-induced food coma.
To warm up further (in a different way) (with a different kind of jacket as we would say in the UK), we made a stop at the Sapporo Beer Museum. Walking through the history of Hokkaido’s most famous beer, we discovered how it grew from a tiny brewery into a global brand. The highlight, of course, was the tasting session at the end. Needless to say, sipping a cold glass of Sapporo Classic while staring out at the light dusting of snow was exactly what we needed to feel like true winter warriors. Absolute perfection.
Jozankei: Our First Onsen Experience
Feeling fortified, we moved on to Jozankei, a sleepy little onsen town just outside Sapporo. This was where we decided to try a public onsen for the first time. Despite being one of the things we were most looking forward to in Japan, imagine as we were standing at the entrance, frantically Googling “onsen etiquette” debating whether it was too late to back out. The idea of communal bathing in our birthday suits felt a bit like a social experiment. But once we eased into the outdoor bath, steam rising into the frosty air, snow softly falling, the nerves melted away. The water here is clear and soothing, gently warming you to your core. By the time we climbed out, we were onsen converts. Turns out, awkward first experiences are worth pushing through.
Morioka: Noodles, New Friends, and Nyuto Onsen
Morioka surprised us in the best way. Beyond the chaos of the Wanko Soba challenge and the incredible meal at Valo (more on that soon), it served as our base for a truly unforgettable experience: our trip to Nyuto Onsen, tucked deep in the snowy mountains of Akita Prefecture.
The journey to Nyuto was like stepping into a winter wonderland but on steroids. As we wound our way toward the onsen, we were greeted by the most snow we had ever seen in our lives. And that’s saying something. We’ve braved the icy winters of Canada and trekked through the stark beauty of Iceland, but Nyuto took things to a whole new level. Snow banks reached a staggering 10 feet high in some places, towering above us like frosty white walls.
As we walked through this magical landscape, we felt like we had entered another world. The snow was pristine, untouched, and glistening in the faint winter sun. The silence was profound, broken only by the crunch of our boots and the occasional soft thud of snow falling from a tree branch.
Arriving at Nyuto Onsen felt like reaching a secret haven. This cluster of historic baths has been welcoming visitors for over 300 years. The outdoor bath we visited was nestled among snow-laden trees and looked like a postcard brought to life. The mineral-rich, milky-white water was warm and inviting, with the faint scent of sulphur adding to its natural charm. It was a stark contrast to the clear, soothing waters we’d experienced at Jozankei. Settling into the steaming bath, surrounded by towering snowdrifts and the serenity of the mountains, was a moment we’ll never forget.
While soaking in the onsen, we struck up a conversation with a friendly guy from Taiwan who had studied in the UK. At first, we thought it was just a small world moment, but then reality hit: we were all naked. Under water. Talking. About life. And we were just totally fine with it. (Yes, we were all naked, but no, no one made it weird. It was actually kind of like chatting at a coffee shop, except, you know, no clothes and very hot water. Japan, you’re a trip.) It turns out, the whole “naked communal bathing” thing was much less strange than we thought, and we left feeling completely at ease. But hey, when you’re all in the same bath and there’s not a stitch of clothing between you and your newfound friends, it kind of feels like the least weird thing in the world.
Back in Morioka, we had another unforgettable experience at Valo, a cozy restaurant where the owners welcomed us like old friends. The food was exceptional, but the highlight was meeting their little boy, who ran around the restaurant with all the energy in the world. He reminded us so much of our nephew that it felt like a tiny piece of home.
And then came the Wanko Soba challenge. For the uninitiated, here’s how it works: you sit down, and they serve you tiny bowls of soba noodles, one after another until you tap out. The bowls come fast, and they don’t stop unless you physically cover your bowl with the lid. The first few bowls are a novelty. By bowl 30, it starts to feel like a game. By bowl 70, it’s a battle of willpower. Scott made it to a respectable 50 bowls before calling it quits. Ash, on the other hand, powered through an impressive 125 bowls. It was equal parts impressive and mildly alarming.
Yamagata: Ryokan Retreats, Mystery Dishes, and Exceptionally Hot Baths
Arriving in Yamagata felt like stepping into a slower, more traditional side of Japan. We checked into a lovely ryokan, where time seemed to move at a different pace. The room was everything we’d hoped for, tatami mat floors, sliding doors, and a low wooden table that invited us to sit cross-legged and drink green tea while gazing out at the snowy courtyard. Shortly after checking in, we were handed soft cotton yukata robes, which we were encouraged to wear around the ryokan. We slipped them on immediately and embraced the chance to pretend we were living in a period drama.
As the evening approached, it was time for the main event: our kaiseki dinner, a multi-course feast that felt like a ritual in itself. Course after course appeared, each dish more beautiful than the last, arranged with such care that we felt bad disturbing them with our chopsticks. The only catch? We weren’t always sure what we were eating. The translations provided were vague at best, leaving us to guess whether we were eating river fish, mountain vegetables, or something else entirely. There was a lot of seafood (a bit of a challenge for Scott and even Ash), but we powered through, determined to embrace the experience. The highlight was the famous Yamagata beef - marbled and melt-in-your-mouth tender. If we could’ve eaten just plates of that, we would have been in heaven.
Post-dinner, we wandered back to our room feeling full and slightly mystified by the meal. To wind down, we decided to soak in the ryokan’s onsen. Compared to Jozankei and Nyuto, the water here was exceptionally hot. It was the kind of heat that makes you feel like a boiled dumpling within seconds, but once we eased in, it became oddly addictive. Each bath is sourced from the local hot springs, and in Tendo, the water is known for its healing properties particularly for skin ailments and fatigue.
The next morning, feeling thoroughly relaxed (and slightly more fluent in the art of onsen bathing), we took a walk through the quiet streets of Tendo. We later learned that the town is famous for producing shogi(Japanese chess) pieces, and to our delight, the ryokan even had a set. We spent the afternoon attempting to learn the game, quickly realising it’s far more complicated than regular chess. Still, it was fun to stumble through the rules, and by the end of our stay, we were thoroughly hooked.
The stay at the ryokan was full of rich experiences and you can check out what we learned in Editions #2 and #3 of our 5 Things We Learned series here (#2) and here (#3).
Stepping Out of Our Comfort Zone: The Vlogging Adventure
Amidst all these experiences, we have decided to start vlogging our journey, a first for both of us. Holding a camera and speaking to an unseen audience has felt awkward and a little cringe, to say the least. We are hyper-aware of our surroundings, worried about disturbing others, and often found ourselves redoing takes due to nervous laughter or stumbling over words. Despite being seasoned pros at presenting at work this feels different. It is pushing us out of our comfort zones, and as the days go by, we are beginning to enjoy capturing our adventures in this new format.
Reflecting on this part of our journey, we realised how much northern Japan has taught us: how to embrace the cold, how to find joy in slowing down, and how to recognise that 125 bowls of soba is probably too many. Next week, we head to Nikko and Nagano, where more history, adventure, and (inevitably) more food await. If northern Japan is anything to go by, we’re in for a treat, and probably a few more bowls of noodles.
