Soaking, Slurping, and Saying Goodbye: Our Last Days In Japan
After nearly two months of exploring Japan, our final stretch took us to the island of Shikoku, then across the water to Hiroshima, before ending in Fukuoka on the island of Kyushu. It was a journey that mixed relaxation, reflection, and a bit of spontaneity as we fully embraced a slower pace before leaving Japan behind.
Shikoku and the Magic of Dōgo Onsen
Leaving Kyoto, we boarded an overnight bus bound for Matsuyama, our first stop on Shikoku island. Shikoku isn’t on everyone’s Japan itinerary, but we wanted to visit one of the country’s most famous and oldest hot springs - Dōgo Onsen.
Arriving bleary-eyed, we made our way straight to the legendary bathhouse, which has been in operation for over 1,000 years. The area around Dōgo Onsen felt like stepping back in time, with charming streets lined with ryokans, a mechanical clock that put on a little show every hour, and even a covered shopping arcade that made wandering a joy.
Dōgo Onsen itself is a piece of history. It’s said to have inspired the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli’s ‘Spirited Away’, and while no magical transformations occurred (that we know of), we did visit all three bathhouses. Each had a different vibe: the Honkan, the grand old building, was surprisingly vibrant in the early morning as people got ready for work; Tsubaki-no-Yu felt much more local, with an older crowd enjoying their regular soaks; and Asuka-no-Yu, the newest and most polished of the three, provided a modern yet elegant experience. No matter where we went, the warm waters and the sense of tradition made it an unforgettable stop.
Beyond the Bathhouse, we explored Matsuyama Castle which had a perfect view of what was surprisingly a very large city. We continue to be humbled by how small the cities and towns we are used to back in the UK are compared to what’s out there in the rest of the world. It’s a rich and rewarding perspective.
Hiroshima: A City Reborn
From Matsuyama, we hopped on a ferry to Hiroshima, a journey that gave us time to process the transition from the serene baths of Shikoku to a city with such a profound history. Hiroshima was a must-visit for us, not just for its historical significance but also because we wanted to see how it had rebuilt itself into the vibrant city it is today.
Walking through the Peace Memorial Park was a sobering experience. The Atomic Bomb Dome, standing as a silent witness to the past, was particularly striking. We spent hours in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, learning about the events of August 6, 1945, and the aftermath. The Museum documents first hand accounts of the horrors that unfolded on the day itself and in the horrific consequences for families across Hiroshima. It was heavy and a lot to take in, but we left with a deep sense of admiration for Hiroshima’s resilience. However, the Museum doesn’t just document the history, it actively promotes international peace, reminding visitors of the importance of dialogue and nuclear disarmament. In the world we live in today, it’s so important to educate and challenge yourself to learn about the past so we can better ourselves for the future.
Hiroshima isn’t just about its past though, it’s about its future, and that optimism was tangible everywhere. The city is filled with green spaces, art, and culture, all emphasising its commitment to renewal and hope. The energy of Hondori Street, bustling with young people and street performers, showed a city thriving with life. The riverside cafés and bike-friendly paths created a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, while the presence of students from around the world at Hiroshima University highlighted its global outlook. Even the local cuisine, especially the layered, hearty Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki felt like a celebration of resilience and creativity. The city’s dedication to art and remembrance, with installations like the Children’s Peace Monument and the Paper Crane Tower, further cemented its message of looking forward while honouring the past.
On a lighter note, and speaking of okonomiyaki, whilst we missed out in Osaka, we made sure to indulge in Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki which is a layered version of the famous savoury pancake, packed with noodles and cooked right in front of you. It was messy, delicious, and exactly what we needed after a heavy day of history.
No visit to Hiroshima would be complete without a short ferry ride to Miyajima. We shuffled around our plans and learnt all about tide times which if you are interested you can read about in our 5 Thing series here, to ensure that we could visit the iconic floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine. But whilst we waited for the tide to come in and the sun to set, we couldn’t help but explore what the local wildlife were up to. Yes, Miyajima, like Nara, has free roaming deer. The deer on Miyajima were much more relaxed than their counterparts in Nara; rather than aggressively demanding snacks, they seemed content to lounge in the shade or curiously observe passing visitors. A far more pleasant deer encounter for us! However, not all deer were so content with the other travellers that were passing by which made for some good people watching! When the sun finally set, it became perhaps the iconic memory of our time in Japan - it was one of those perfect travel moments—calm, breathtaking, and utterly unforgettable. Like our day to visit Mt Fuji, watching the sun slowly set over the mountains behind the torri gate will stick with us throughout the journey and the dozens of sunsets we will see.
Fukuoka: Rest, Recharge, Reflect
Initially, we had plans to explore more of Kyushu, but by the time we reached Fukuoka, we realised what we needed most was a pause. After weeks of moving around Japan, hopping from city to city, we decided to slow down and just ‘be’ for a little while.
Fukuoka turned out to be the perfect place for that. It is a highly underrated city in Japan and I have the feeling that Kyushu itself would be extraordinary to visit. A less trodden path compared to the rest of Japan for international travellers but with sights like the Takochiho Gorge, Mt Aso, Nagasaki and the hot spring town of Beppu (the Gates of Hell as they are known!) is undeniably a place we would love to return to. However, back to Fukuoka. We took leisurely strolls along the river, found cosy coffee shops (obviously), and ate our weight in Hakata ramen. The food scene in Fukuoka is legendary, and we made sure to do it justice. The highlight? Slurping up rich, pork-bone broth ramen at Ramen stadium, surrounded by locals who clearly knew their way around a bowl of noodles.
We also took the opportunity to get Ash’s haircut, whilst I got up to something that will remain a mystery until the end of the year. Each time Ash gets his haircut, I’ll do something fun and make him a little story at the end of the trip of what I got up to. Would love to know what you think I got up to in the comments! To top it all off, we fully embraced Nintendo and picked up a Switch, ensuring that our travels now come with a side of Mario Kart. A permanent reminder of our time in Japan.
This final stop gave us time to process our journey through Japan; the cold north of Hokkaido, the shrines of Nikko, the madness of Tokyo and the quiet beauty of the countryside. All 4 of Japan’s main islands, nearly 30 different towns and cities and 17 different overnight accommodations. From snow monkeys in Jigokudani, to fun encounters with deer in Nara of course, the place that started this trip, the majesty of Mt. Fuji. This is more than just a list of places, this journey taught us so much about ourselves and how we want to travel. We learned that we love the balance of adventure and stillness, that we don’t need to see everything to appreciate a place, and that sometimes, the best moments come from unexpected encounters like the brit pop loving chef on our firs night in Tokyo, to casual conversations whilst naked in an onsen, or to finding unexpected hiking buddies in Fushimi Inari. These are the moments that stick with you - the perfectly unexpected.
Next Stop: The Road Ahead
Japan had been the perfect first chapter of our Fuji to Fiji adventure. But now, it’s time for something new. Our next stop takes us to South Korea, and over the next month, our journey will take us through China, Macau, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. We can’t wait to share what’s next so stay tuned!
For now, though, we leave Japan with full hearts, full stomachs, and a deeper appreciation for the art of slow travel. Until next time, Japan - arigato gozaimashita.
